Sizes
Fraser's Eagle Owl (small)
Hook size- C 3.00 mm
Yarn- Scheepjes Cotton 8 (100% cotton 186 yds/50 g)
Yardage Coming Soon- total yds. **Please Note: Weights and measurements are for Scheepjes Cotton 8. If you choose to use another brand of yarn, which is perfectly ok, your amounts used could vary greatly from what is listed.**
- Color 1- Black (515) approximately 650 yds used
- Color 2- Light Turquoise (622) approximately 330 yds used
- Color 3- Grey (710) approximately 950 yds used
- Color 4- White (502) approximately 760 yds used
- Color 5- Light Grey (700) approximately 650 yds used
- Color 6- Cobalt (519) approximately 850 yds used
- Color 7- Grey Blue (652) approximately 390 yds used
- Color 8- Jeans Blue (711) approximately 260 yds used
Finished size- Approximately 52 inches.
Great Horned Owl (medium)
Hook size- 7 4.5 mm
Yarn- Stylecraft Special DK (100% acrylic 322 yds/100 g)
Yardage- 5300 - 5821 total yds. **Please Note: Weights and measurements are for Stylecraft Special DK. If you choose to use another brand of yarn, which is perfectly ok, your amounts used could vary greatly from what is listed.**
- Color 1- Black (1002) approximately 891 yds used
- Color 2- Sunshine (1114) approximately 428 yds used
- Color 3- Walnut (1054) approximately 1225 yds used
- Color 4- Stone (1710) approximately 980 yds used
- Color 5- Mocha (1064) approximately 629 yds used
- Color 6- Copper (1029) approximately 897 yds used
- Color 7- Camel (1420) approximately 464 yds used
- Color 8- Candyfloss (1130) approximately 304 yds used
Finished size- Approximately 66 inches.
Eurasian Eagle Owl (large)
Hook size- H 5mm
Yarn- Stylecraft Special Aran (100% acrylic 214 yds/100 g)
Yardage- 6215 - 7661 total yds. **Please Note: Weights and measurements are for Stylecraft Special Aran. If you choose to use another brand of yarn, which is perfectly ok, your amounts used could vary greatly from what is listed.**
- Color 1- Black (1002) approximately 1070 yds used
- Color 2- Sage (1725) approximately 748 yds used
- Color 3- Graphite (1063) approximately 1638 yds used
- Color 4- Cream (1005) approximately 1113 yds used
- Color 5- Storm Blue (1722) approximately 992 yds used
- Color 6- Teal (1062) approximately 1139 yds used
- Color 7- Silver (203) approximately 565 yds used
- Color 8- Emperor (11425) approximately 396 yds used
Finished size- Approximately 84 inches.
Helpful Hints
If you have downloaded any of my patterns in the past this list will probably look familiar to you. The helpful hints section is one I encourage everyone to read each time you start one of my designs.
- Use as many or as few colors as you’d like.
- Some rounds seem very wordy and intimidating. I promise that most are much easier than they appear. I try to be as detailed as possible when writing so that beginners can complete my patterns without too much trouble.
- Due to variations in tension you may find you need to either increase or decrease the number of YO’s you must do for your long stitches or chains. If your long stitches pull or curl your work then you may need to increase your YO’s. If your long stitches are floppy then your may need to decrease your number of YO’s. This applies to increasing or decreasing ch’s as well.
- Beginning chains are counted as a stitch when noted.
- Count your stitches each round. If your rounds don't end where the pattern says they should, you've made a mistake. I strongly suggest you frog and fix it. The detail in the pattern requires exact placement of many stitches for symmetry.
- Blocking your finished work will give you crisp, straight lines for a beautiful bedspread. To block large pieces I use two or three sets of foam alphabet mats available in most toy sections and standard pins. My best results have been achieved by washing the blanket, but turning off the final spin, and then pinning the wet blanket to the mats in a sunny spot on my patio for most of the day. Sun blocking probably isn’t a good idea for yarns that will fade, but works beautifully nonetheless.
- The best advice I can give for any of my patterns is go stitch by stitch, line by line, and take your time. When, not if, you get stuck or frustrated then take a minute to stitch in your tails or walk away completely and then come back fresh.
- Should you get stuck on a section I am always happy to help. Please reach out to me on my Facebook page.
A Brief Lesson in Anatomy
Stitch anatomy, that is.
To work my patterns successfully you MUST understand the anatomy of a crochet stitch. A crochet stitch consists of the post (1), a front loop (2), and a back loop (3). When working in the round, the loops above and to the right of the post belong to that stitch (noted in the photo with a red "hook"). When working in rows or on the wrong side of the fabric the loops above and to the left belong to the stitch. Unless instructed to do differently you will work stitches under both front and back loops of the previous round.
A note about the "hidden" stitch: When working corners you will be instructed to skip the hidden stitch from time to time. The hidden stitch is the first stitch of any side after a corner. When beginning that side the loops of the first stitch may be hidden by the stitches made into the corner space. Be aware of the hidden stitch when working corners. Skipping it when you shouldn't or not skipping it when you should can make any easy section of any pattern become a nightmare.
Working around the post of the stitch pulls the loops at the top either to the front (with back post) or to the back (with front post). Post stitches change the height of the finished fabric.
Front or back loop stitches do not change the height of the finished fabric. I use these stitches in my patterns to hide anchoring stitches.
Occasionally you will be instructed to work between stitches (4). In this case you won't work in either of the loops or around the post. These stitches are worked in the space between the two stitches like you would work around a chain.
